Tim's Ravings

The wine scene has always got caught up in fashions. A great example is in white wine. One day we like overoaked chardonnay, the next we like unoaked chardonnay, the next we hate all chardonnay and critics tell us we must switch to riesling.

Invariably, as statistics reveal, well balanced chardonnay comes back and remains the undisputed king of whites – riesling remains popular among the critics who seem to me to be the only ones actually drinking the stuff because its accounts for less than 10 per cent of white wine drunk.

Red wines undergo similar trends. The current one is shiraz-viognier blends. These are great if they come from cool regions similar to the northern Rhone Valley in France (like Canberra pioneer Clonakilla) but a total con if they come from warmer regions (like the Hunter Valley). I have no doubt as to the long term future of these wines in the marketplace.

Interestingly, there is a spin-off of this trend which threatens to transcend fads. This is the issue of northern Rhone style shiraz wines. At a number of wine shows over the past few years I have noticed these peppery, spicy wines being rewarded purely because they are peppery and spicey.

The problem is Australian shiraz is a unique style throughout the world. Where french shiraz is peppery and spicy, Aussie shiraz is ripe fruit and mocha, typified by the Barossa Valley style. It would be a shame to see this latter style subjugated on a permanent basis, although I don’t believe it will. I am sure a balance will be found.

Another trend which frustrates at the moment is in the case of Cabernet Sauvignon. Show Judges and critics are now definitely penalising minty, eucalyptus, cassis (i.e varietal flavours ) of cabernet sauvignon, claiming it too often to be green and leafy when, if viewed through the Bordeaux prism, it certainly is not. Instead we seem to be leaning towards overripe, non-varietal, cabernets that are alcoholic, too soft and will not age. This trend is not sustainable.

I guess one thing all of this does show is that as a winery, it is important we hold your nerve in terms of style. Stake our territory; back the style we do best and hold our nerve against the swings and roundabouts of fads